A Tradition of Soup by Teresa Chen
This Beautiful Book is Much More Than Just 144 Chinese Soup Recipes
Sep 9, 2009
Among a flood of Chinese cookbooks, Dr. Teresa Chen's new book, A Tradition of Soups, Flavors from China's Pearl River Delta truly stands out. Chen is not a chef, but rather an activist in outreach and health education programs for the elderly immigrant Chinese population of Stockton and Northern California. As the founder of a medical center, she learned first hand not only the health-promoting nature of the delicious soups that these women still prepare in their homes, but how their life stories are reflected in a tradition of cooking soup.
This book is unique in several ways:
- First, it concerns the cooking traditions of a relatively small territory in Canton, China; specifically the fertile Pearl River Delta.
- Second, Chen only accepted and tested recipes from people over 70 years old. She has also included their life stories in a fascinating appendix at the end of the book.
- And third, unlike many Asian cookbooks, she doesn't include easily-found substitutes available in all grocery stores. Rather, arguing that traditional ingredients are now relatively easy to find or order through a website, she presents classic recipes using traditional ingredients.
The book is organized in four sections, each worthy of in-depth reading.
The Chinese Healing Tradition as Expressed in Soup
Chen starts with a basic but thorough discussion of traditional Chinese medicine, explaining the basic tenets of yin-yang (the unity of opposites and the law of change) and the Five Elements (Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal, and Water). She then explains how soup fits into these concepts.
But perhaps the most interesting feature of this chapter is the Tale of Two Deltas -- the historical and cultural story of why so many immigrants from the Pearl River Delta ended up in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta of California. In particular, it was illuminating that until Kennedy lifted immigrant restrictions in 1963, many Chinese women had patiently waited thirty years or more to join their husbands in the United States. It is the author's love for these women, many of whom became widows and were left alone soon after immigrating, that renders the special joy and affection that permeates this book.
Chinese Soup Basics
This section discusses the four types of soup (Tong, Gang, Juk, and Tohngseui), equipment, and techniques found in classic Chinese soups. A highlight of this chapter is a detailed discussion of rehydrating dried ingredients, which includes some unique tips. The discussion of cooking vessels and how to use them describes not only traditional pots but also modern pressure and rice cookers.
A Comprehensive Collection of Classic Asian Ingredients
This chapter alone is worth the price of the book. Not only is it a comprehensive list of classic Chinese ingredients, including a special section on medicinal herbs, but each ingredient is described accompanied by a clear, beautiful photo. One could take this book and easily find these ingredients in a Chinese market without needing to read product labels or signs.
Indeed the photography is exceptional all the way through the book -- this must have been a very expensive book to produce.
Cantonese Soup Recipes
The soup recipes reflect the attention to detail that characterizes every element of the book. The soups are categorized by season, which helps maintain their integrity. The seasonal grouping approach singles out ingredients that are likely to be found fresh in markets.
Almost every soup has a color photo and each recipe is presented in its entirety on one separate page. Since the recipes are relatively short and simple, this presentation makes for a practical cookbook. Lay it flat on the counter and prepare the recipe without needing to turn pages or touch the book at all.
Flavor and Health are Compatible
Given that the author is not a chef, an initial concern was whether the health factors would triumph over flavor. However, the author's viewpoint is reasuuring, as she writes, "People often assume that healthy food is, by nature, uninteresting food. These healthy soups will certainly prove otherwise. Fortified with health-promoting intentions and good nutrition, they will entice you with their colors, aromas, and flavors."
Overall, this book delivers all it promises -- and more.
A Tradition of Soups, Flavors from China's Pearl River Delta by Teresa M. Chen. Published by North Atlantic Books, Berkeley, California, 2009, ISBN: 978-1-55643-765-6, $24.95
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